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Chinese Cheese Jingle Bells 腐乳響鈴

Chinese Cheese Jingle Bells

Western foodies always doubt if there is cheese in China. Northern Chinese love yogurt because their ancestors are hunters and raise live stocks. Tibetans make very lovely smoked yak cheese.

Many Southern Chinese are lactose intolerant. Their ancestors are paddy growers. The major source of protein for is mainly from soya. I guest most foodies love tofu. Some call fermented tofu Chinese cheese because the way it is made is exactly like cheese. In this sense, you may call fermented tofu the Chinese cheese.

In the old days, fermented tofu is like European cheese. Different regions have different mould to ferment the curd. Anhui, Suzhou, Wu Han, Vietnam, Beijing and Canton all have their specialties. In Canton, Shiu Kou town in Xinhui used to make very good fermented tofu. However with the urbanization, we can hardly find real Shiu Kou fermented tofu on the market. Who will invest this type of handicraft with humble margin?

Can we pair fermented tofu with wine like Western cuisine when we have unfinished bottle at the end of the meal? The answer is no because most fermented tofu on the market is with additives and preservatives. Your taste buds will complain immediately.

There are always exceptions. I came across a very nice fermented tofu from Tainan Yujing county. They have their unique style of adding rice wine, wine lees, sugar and salt and soya. These ingredients are all-natural preservatives. Of course, credit goes the natural artesian water and the sustainable farming in this region. I studied the history of tofu in Taiwan and I guessed, most likely, Taiwan got this skill from Ryukyu Islands when it was under the sovereignty of Ming Empire.

It is very smooth, full of the natural aroma of soya with the enhancement of rice wine. Bottle life is 2 year. It will last for 9 months after opening. It goes very well with Champagne, red and white. Indeed, whatever dishes that cheese is the ingredient, this ferment tofu offer you an alternative. I made pasta, risotto, bread spreading, ice cream, salad dressings with it and the effect is overwhelming. I would say the manufacturing team is the Buena Vista Social Club in Tainan because they are all elderlies.

Annual production is 2000 bottles only. The video posted is an example for a simple dish as an amuse bouche. I am sure this fermented tofu will inspire you for your home cooking.

Glossary: <Jingle Bells> is a common snack of Hangzhou in China. It is so crispy that it makes crackling sounds when you bite it.

腐乳響鈴

洋老饕經常懷疑到底中國有沒有起司?中國北方人的祖先是獵人和牧人, 他們都愛酸奶。藏民會造很可口的煙燻氂牛起司。

有許多南方中國人都是乳糖過敏。祖先都是種稻米。蛋白質主要來自黃豆。我相信很多人都愛豆腐。有人叫腐乳做中國起司因為造法跟起司一樣是把豆腐透過黴菌發酵而成。從這個角度看,叫它做中國起司未常不可。

以前腐乳真的和歐洲起司一樣,不同產區有不同的黴菌發酵。安徽、蘇州、武漢、越南丶廣東和北京都有自己獨當一面的精品。在廣東新會開平的水口鎮出產的口水腐乳最出名。隨著城市化,如今很難在市面上找到真正的水口腐乳。今時今日誰會投資這種蠅頭小利的手工藝?

腐乳可以像西餐般配餐後喝剩的紅酒嗎?答案是不可以!因為市面上的腐乳大都含防腐劑和添加劑。味蕾肯定投訴。

但凡事有例外。 我遇到一款很棒的台南玉井縣的腐乳。他們的獨步單方是加了米粕、米酒、酒糟、黃豆糖和鹽。這些材料都市天然的的防腐劑。當然,當地的地下礦泉水和生態農業區也功不可沒。翻查過腐乳在台灣的歷史,我懷疑這技術是從琉球群島傳過去的。因為琉球曾經蕃屬於明帝國。

這腐乳很嫩滑,在米酒的烘托下天然的黃豆香更為彰顯。可以保存兩年,開瓶後可以存九個月。可以配香檳、紅酒和白葡萄酒。任何可以用起司早的菜餚,這腐乳都可以提供多一個選擇。我曾用它來做義大利麵、義大利米飯、塗麵包、冰淇淋、沙律醬,效果都很不錯。這腐乳的製作團隊就像古巴的Buena Vista Social Club 樂隊,因為他們都是長者。

年產量只有兩千瓶。這個視頻示範一道很簡單的小吃。這腐乳可以啟發您的好煮意!

備註: 響鈴是杭州的小吃,因為酥脆,吃時脆得作響,因此命名。

 

詳細產品介紹,點這裡:

https://www.tinacellar.com/blogs/events/love-at-first-bite-again

 



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