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How Southern Most Can It Be? 白頭宮女再生記 到底有多南?

 




白頭宮女再生記

到底有多

據說南方是風水寶地, 將稱香港仔為南區,人也貴氣起來。

從地理的的角度,坐北向南是可以採光最多,種植物也格外茁壯。所以南向莊園出產的酒一直受到收藏家追捧。

隆尼河谷北以露滴坡(Cote Rotie)見稱、南以教皇新堡享負盛名。飲家多捨北取南,因為充沛陽光和溫暖氣侯產區的風格較宏偉雄壯。

近日教皇新堡區恐怕也不免受盛名所累,有濫產質低之嫌。精彩的佳釀性價比不合理。

與教皇新堡遙遙相對的黎赫區(Lirac)卻在默默起革命。說到南,原來黎赫區比教皇新堡更南。

一說黎赫區可能比教皇新堡區歷史更綿遠。早在羅馬帝國殺入高盧區時,早已有先民在此產酒。黎赫區可以説是隆尼河酒的出生地。1357年教皇恩魯生四世訂了20桶黎赫區的紅酒,並在桶上刻上 CDR 隆尼河谷的縮寫以便悉別於其他一般貨色。自始這區的紅酒就在上層社會風行一時。遺憾是先竄紅也先遭怏。此區也是最早受蚜蟲病影響。1863年成為法國首當其衝的重災區。直至1937年才還她清白,被授予最高榮譽"CRU”。如今黎赫區是隆尼河谷眾產區法規則中最嚴的一區。

有時產業的榮辱如龜兔賽跑。驕傲一方往往佔下風。論性價比黎赫區很快會跑出。

誠意推薦御林騎酒莊。1920年創辦人勒巴采家族從意大利托斯卡納遷徙至黎赫,由於酒莊前身是教皇御林軍的馬廄,因而命名。1930以三傾莊園開始,如今的當家瑪家禮和菲比安已經是第五代。從2009開始正式註冊生物動力學。他們都是崇尚自然對葡萄給予最低的人為干預。所有的葡萄酒都不含添加硫黃。

今天重點推介御林騎酒莊的黎赫白,年產約兩千瓶,十分清新可喜。格納殊的雄偉、瑚珊的高雅還有維歐尼的香薰,再加上她百搭的特性,深秋的蛇羹、肥鱔怎可缺她。白花香可比美薑花香,夾了杏脯和香料。

御林騎酒莊的黎赫紅,典型的格納殊/慕維特/施赫配方。厚重雄壯不失細膩,有覆盤子、甘草、煙燻、灌木香。羊腩煲和臘味的最佳伴侶。


How Southern Most Can It Be?

South facing location is a treasure land according to Feng Shui. To call Aberdeen on HK Island as the Southern District, residents will feel like aristocrats.

Geographically speaking, South facing farm receives the most sunshine and crops grow stronger and better. Therefore wine produced from South facing vineyard is always the most sought after.

Along the Rhone valley , drinkers always remember Cote Rotie from the North and Chateauneuf du Pape from the South . Most drinkers prefer the South to the North because the style of the abundant sunshine and warm climate of the South is more magnificent and masculine .

I guess perhaps it is the side effect of being famous, fine and delicate Chateauneuf du Pape wine has been speculated to an unaffordable level recently .

Lirac, which is on the opposite side of the river, is undergoing a silent revolution . Speaking of the South, Lirac is indeed located further South than the Chateauneuf du Pape.

Some say that Lirac has got an even longer history . Forefather of Gauls started viniculture there before the invasion of Romans. You may say that Lirac is the birth place of Cote du Rhone wine because in 1357, Pope Innocent IV ordered 20 barrels of wine from Lirac, and engraved the CDR (abbreviation of Cote du Rhone) on the barrel to distinguish it from other ordinary house wines . Then Lirac red became the most popular wine among the high society. It is a pity that the first blush is also the first to suffer. This area was the earliest attacked by phylloxera. In 1863, it became the most devastating region in France . It was not until 1937 that her name was cleaned was awarded the highest honor of "CRU". Today, the Lirac has got the strictest rules of the Rhone’s appellations.

Sometimes rise and fall of an industry is like a tortoise and a rabbit race. The proud side often has a disadvantage. Lirac will out-perform other regions soon under the criteria of same price level.

I sincerely recommend Domaines Les Carabiniers . In 1920, the founder Leperchoise family migrated from Tuscany, Italy, it is so named because the winery used to be the stable of the Pope’s chivalry. They started with 3 hectares in 1930 .Magali and Fabien are now the fifth generation. In 2009 they registered biodynamic producer officially under the Demeter standard. They advocate nature to give the grapes the lowest human intervention . All wines are free of added sulphur, very clean and pure.

I would like to highlight their Lirac Blanc, with an annual production of less than 2,000 bottles, which is very refreshing and pleasant. The magnificence of Grenache blanc, the elegance of Roussanne and the fragrance of Viognier, coupled with her versatile character, how can foodies enjoy snake soup and fat eels without her in the fall. The white flower aroma is comparable to the beautiful ginger lily, with apricot and spices.

Their Lirac Rouge , the typical Grenache / Mouverde / Syrah assemblage. It is robust and majestic yet delicate, with raspberry , licorice, smoky flavors and garrigue. A heady wine, powerful and hot. The best Chinese food pairing will be for lamb casserole and cured meat or sausages.

 


Domaines Des Carabiniers Lirac Blanc 2017 0.75cl

Bottle Price HKD 248

Case of 12 bottles Price HKD 2538


Domaines Des Carabiniers Lirac Rouge 2017 0.75cl 

Bottle Price HKD 248

Case of 12 bottles Price HKD 2538

 

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活動預告:
密切留意漁村酒家海味臘味宴
會介紹這個酒莊和今年的臘味。



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