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A Tale of a Reverse Generation Gap 一個逆向代溝的故事

 

一個逆向代溝的故事

說到代溝,一般是後生的趕時髦求突破,老一輩的奉行保守主義。凡事有例外。

杜魯恩家族在勃根地莎比區有四百年歷史。他們家一直受法國本地和英國飲家青睞, 出口的數量不多。13代當家尚保羅為了迎合世界潮流,一度重手的用木桶,使酒體變得有點臃腫。到了賓萊成為第十四代當家,他跟老爸唱反調,捨新橡木用不鏽鋼發酵。葡萄藤也大幅度修剪,減低產量來提高質量。使得杜魯恩再度成為環球人氣酒莊。

莎比寒冷的氣候,是以釀製身材苗條的白葡萄酒見稱。我的第一杯勃根地白葡萄酒,也是莎比。前輩茱莉甘寶絲(珍摩露酒莊的前總裁)告訴我,曾幾何時,莎比產區法是列明不準用新橡木。這點有待求證。愚見認為,如果喜歡豐厚的酒體,大可選擇墨爾索;又或者可以等特級莊園的莎比步入中年,她自然會變得珠圓玉潤,何苦刻意求工而失真。我經常開玩笑,莎比區的白葡萄酒,年輕時像趙飛燕,成熟了會變楊玉環。

杜魯恩的列級和特級莊園的酒產量不多,我們有幸少量給飲家解解渴。


A Tale of a Reverse Generation Gap

When talking about generation gap, normally, it is the younger generation who chases fashion and breaks through from tradition. Whilst the older generation is conservative. There is always an exception.

The Droins have a history of 400 years in Chablis of Burgundy. Their wine is much sought after by locals and British drinkers with very small quantity exported. To fit in the world’s trend, 13th generation Jean Paul used much new oak in his wine and resulted in a fat wine. When Benoit took over the family business and became the 14th generation, he changed what his old man has done by giving up new oaks and used stainless steel instead. He also pruned his wine massively and lower production in order to achieve better quality. Droin became popular again.

Climate of Chablis is pretty cold and famous for producing white wine with elegant body. My first glass of White Burgundy is Chablis. My good old colleague Julie Campos, the ex-MD of Jeanne Moreau, once told me that there was time oak was not allowed in Chablis. This is to be verified. To my personal opinion, if one likes full body white Burgundy, simply choose Meursault or wait for a Grand Cru Chablis to mature. She will change from Audrey Hepburn to Elizabeth Taylor.

Production of Droin Grand Crus and Premier Crus is low. We are fortunate to have a small batch available to ease your thirst. 

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