古樸博雅的喬薩裴林瑙迪
少時不愛巴羅洛;一是因為那年代香港市面上精品不多,開一瓶馬天尼旗下商業化的托斯卡納或皮埃蒙特已經很了不起。二是當年好導師不多,儘管那時劉校長推廣意大利酒不遺餘力;沒有好貨實習也徒然。精品不普及,即使遇到精品,也因陳年不到位不解風情。直到我效力IWM時,老闆請我喝了一瓶1945年的巴羅洛,我才明白何以叫它為意大利酒王。極品的巴羅洛像亞洲美女或俊男,不到四十歲,味道不出來。60歲還在頂峰。君不見今天的朱玲玲和周潤發?
酒壇巨擘珍西斯羅便臣評他與巴托洛馬斯卡拉羅(Bartolo Mascarello)為古典派的典範。是現今皮埃蒙特區中,僅存的兩個堅持用最傳統、最天然方法釀酒的死硬派。比起馬斯卡拉羅的淡雅婉約, 林瑙迪追求宏偉和深度。喬年輕時也玩過一會兒的摩登風,結果還是覺得傳統好。他學的是獸醫,1992年父親往生了他便成為了當家。秉承老父遺訓堅持傳統路。
傳統的巴羅洛愛勾兌不同莊園的葡萄達至天然平衡的效果。喬不製作單一莊園的酒。他以四個不同村的葡萄,炮製出兩款大異其趣的巴羅洛。
他的代表作 Brunate-Le Coste ,有力拔山河的霸氣,陽剛味十足,濃稠化不開,耐人尋味。另一款Cannubi San Lorenzo and Ravera 則花果瀰漫,有如香薰,盡顯巴羅洛王者風範的本色。
喬2018仙遊了,幸虧兩個女兒克紹箕裘,2014年由她們主理,衣缽盡得真傳。
遇到以下一手好貨,三代當家的作品也在其中。極品巴羅洛樽齡可以過百。人一世、物一世,難得遇上極品,萬勿錯過 !
Quint and Profound Giuseppe Rinaldi
I did not like Barolo when I was young because firstly, not many serious Italian wines were available on the market. Secondly, there were not good tools and tutors to help learn Barolo. Even though “Principal “Lau Chi Sun was devoted to promote Italian, there were no good examples to taste. Once a while we came across goodies, but the bottle age was too young to please drinkers. Until I had tried a bottle of 1945 Barolo treated by my ex-employer IWM, I realised why Barolo was regarded as the King of Wine and the Wine for Kings. Top Barolo is just like Asian gorgeous, you cannot feel their charisma before age of 40. Many are still at their prime at 60s. Loletta Chu and Yun Fat Chow are very good examples.
Wine guru Jancis Robinson speaks highly about Giuseppe Rinaldi and Bartolo Mascarello. They are classics of traditional Barolo and the die-hard producers that cling to the most traditional and natural way to made wine persistently. Bartolo Mascarello tends to be graceful and courteous whilst Giuseppe Rinaldi seeks more for profoundness and magnificence. Giuseppe tried modern style for a while but he eventually followed his old man’s opinion and went back to old school. He studied veterinary, when his old man passed away in 1992, he became the chief of his family business.
Traditional Barolo blends harvest from various crus to achieve the result of balance of wine inn a natural way. Giuseppe Rinaldi never made single vineyard wine. He made two blends with 4 crus in a very different way.
His master piece Brunate- Le Coste is very masculine, deep, concentrated and you have to enjoy it slowly to understand it. The other cuvee Cannubi San Lorenzo and Ravera is over-whelmed with floral and fruity notes, as aromatic as fragrance, and elaborates all the beautiful elements and nobility of the King of Wine.
Giuseppe passed away in 2018. He let his two beloved daughters to handle harvesting and vilification starting from 2014. His fans are very lucky that the estates are in good hands.
I have just come across a very nice badge of back vintages that includes works of their 3 generations. Top Barolo can be aged for a century. Life is too short for second best. Don’t miss it!
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