白的疑惑 - 大長今啼聲初試
韓裔女釀酒師高達美的故事，猶如大長今一般傳奇。新讀者可以在www.tinacellar.com 翻查舊文。
她師承三大孛艮地巨匠：Lafon , Andre Corton ,及Chanson。2013是她在寶祖利莫干村的處女作，一鳴驚人，獲得紅酒巨擘珍茜思羅便臣給予17/20的高分。2016的作品更獲得18分。一早被搶購一空。2017也失諸交臂。2018終於沒錯過，搶到一小批。更驚聞她除了原有的1.5傾的莫干莊園，身為一個單親媽媽，竟然可以創業後5年後購置風磨坊村新田產，真的不得不封她大長今！
最令我引頸企盼的不止是她莫干村的作品，而是她的寶祖麗白。她的三位師父在繆索丶夢霞山和康杜兒這個極品白葡萄產區都有造酒，尤其是Lafon；最便宜那瓶二千大元都沒零錢找續。十分期待她造白。
一直也沒留意寶祖麗區的莎當尼白， 因為產量很低，佔整區產量不到十分之一，每年約二萬五到三萬瓶，不怎麼出口。2014 年在李昂吃巴列斯藍腳雞，餐廳老闆娘介紹我喝了一瓶，驚為天人！ 與奶油和雞配合得天衣無縫。回港後一直沒遇過。一看見高達美出白的寶祖利，猶如五雷轟頂。正考慮該不該入貨；畢竟沒嚐過。想到她師父的白葡萄酒，不管了，下單吧。
貨到港後也不等酒休息，馬上喝了！我的老媽！太感動了！果然名師出高徒，高雅迷人，五官精緻而不耀眼，卻是越細味越可人，聞香弱質纖纖，一配食物卻鐵骨錚錚。真的人如其酒。初調是白胡椒，接著是白麻布，高貴如雅詩蘭黛的白麻香水，然後是冬青，日本麝香瓜皮，木蘭花，夏威夷香水菠蘿，三小時後給我杏，日本極品白桃，太妃糖，蜜糖和香蕉。最要命的是那白桃香，就像是吃真的桃子一樣清甜，那桃味要吮到桃核週邊的帶酸的部分才綻放出較明顯的桃香。末端還給我薄荷。口感豐滿而紮實。
上述的香味都是十分隱約纖巧，畢竟這酒還是一個寶寶，那份感覺就像看著一個酣睡中純潔無瑕的美麗嬰兒，五官輪廓告訴您它將會是個大美人！不知她會如何好女十八變？
手上存貨只有36瓶，遲來的看大長今還有沒有存貨！也許要等2019了！
White Doubts - Debut of Dae Jang Geum
The story of a Korean woman wine maker, Mee Godard , is as legendary as Dae Jang Geum. New readers can look up old articles at www.tinacellar.com.
She studied under the three great masters of Burgundy: Lafon, Andre Corton, and Chanson. 2013 was her first harvest in Mogan of Beaujolais. It was a blockbuster and won a high score of 17/20 by the wine giant Jencis Robinson. The 2016 vintage received 18 points. It was sold out soon. I missed the 2017 . I managed to grab a small batch of 2018. It was even more shocking that apart from the original 1.5 hectare Mogan vineyard, as a single mother, she could even purchase a new properties in Moulin- A- Vent 5 years later. She deserves the nick name of Dae Jang Geum.
What I look forward to most is not only her Mogon, but her Beaujolais Blanc. Her three masters all make wine in the superb white grape producing areas of Montrachet, Meursault, Corton Charlemagne and Condruie .Especially Lafon; the cheapest bottle costs more than HKD 2000.I look forward to her making white.
I haven't paid much attention to the Chardonnay in the Beaujolais, because the output is very low, accounting for less than one-tenth of the entire district's, about 25,000 to 30,000 bottles per year, and it sells domestically. In 2014, I went to a restaurant in Lyon for Bresse Chicken and the lady of the restaurant introduced me to drink a bottle, which was amazing! It goes perfectly with cream and chicken. I have never met Beaujolais blanc since returning to Hong Kong. When I saw Beaujolais Blanc on Mee Godard’s wine list, my heart exploded like hit by thunder. I first hesitate a bit because I have not tasted it before after all. Thinking of her master's white wine, no matter what, I placed an order.
Finally it arrived, I didn't wait for the wine to rest, and drank it immediately! Mama Mia ! I am touched! Sure enough, the famous teachers have high apprentices. It is elegant and charming, the facial features are exquisite and not dazzling, but the more delicate the taste, the more pleasant, the smell is weak and fibrous, but once it goes with food , it becomes rigid . The character of wine is very much like the maker’s. The first note is white pepper, then white linen cloth, as noble as the “ White Linen” perfume of Estee Lauder, then ivy, Japanese musk melon peel, magnolia, Hawaiian perfume pineapple, it offers apricots in three hours, Japanese premium white peach, toffee, honey and bananas. The most impressive thing is the white peach scent, which is as sweet as eating a real peach. The peach scent has to be sucked to the sour part around the peach core before it blooms. At the end it offers mint. On the palate it is very full bodied.
The above scents are all very subtle and delicate. After all, this wine is still a baby. It feels like watching a beautiful baby sleeping innocently. The facial features tell you that it will be a great beauty! I don't know how she will develop to a sophisticated lady.
There are only 36 bottles on hand. Not sure if Mee still has it ! Late comers have to wait for 2019.
高達美 寶祖利 乾白 2018 0.75
Mee Godard Beaujolais Blanc 2018 0.75
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