白松露與巴羅洛
又到了白松露的季節。近幾年的白松露宴，似乎不如2019年以前那般高調了。 真懷念四太主持的慈善白松露宴。
同樣來自意大利皮埃蒙特地區，品嚐白松露，自然少不了意大利的酒王與酒后：巴羅洛和芭芭萊斯科。
不少酒迷認為，巴羅洛比較適合黑松露，而白松露則更適合搭配芭芭萊斯科。這也不難理解，白松露的香氣高雅纖細，較為柔美優雅的芭芭萊斯科，似乎更能襯托它的氣質。畢竟，當代不少頂級巴羅洛都以陽剛雄渾的風格見稱。
感謝 Carlyle & Co 的葡萄酒總監 Leo，讓我發現了由釀酒師露加卡拉梅利諾監釀的巴羅洛。
露加兼具葡萄栽培與釀酒學的專業背景。多年來，他主要擔任釀酒顧問，為多家酒莊釀出出色佳釀，屢獲佳績，真可說是拿獎拿到手軟。
除了釀酒，他還把大部分時間用來創作兒童書插畫。他極少接受訪問。在我的苦苦追問下，他才告訴我，他的釀酒哲學，就是細心聆聽葡萄的心聲。有莊主形容他為「葡萄詩人」，這絕不誇張。他的獨特視角與創意，讓釀出來的酒確實令人動容。 在 Cellar Tracker 平台上，甚至有人引用英國詩人 William Wordsworth 的詩句，形容他釀製的 Ruchè。
他的巴羅洛，讓我聯想起林青霞。穿女裝時嫵媚嬌俏，穿男裝時挺拔瀟灑。骨子裏那份高傲，成就了她的大氣風範；那份剛柔並濟的氣質，真叫人神往。
能釀出帶有皮埃蒙特巴羅洛經典紫羅蘭、玫瑰與香料氣息的佳釀，釀酒師比比皆是；但能釀出如林青霞般獨特氣質的巴羅洛，則是鳳毛麟角。
這款巴羅洛與白松露相襯，絕對是珠聯璧合。
White Truffles and Barolo
White truffle season is here again. In recent years, white truffle dinners seem to have become less glamorous than they were before 2019. I still fondly remember the charity white truffle dinners hosted by Angela Leong On-kei.
Both originating from Piedmont, Italy, white truffles and the region's celebrated wines have long been closely associated. When enjoying white truffles, one cannot overlook Italy's King and Queen of Wines: Barolo and Barbaresco.
Many wine lovers believe that Barolo pairs better with black truffles, while white truffles are more suited to Barbaresco. This is understandable. The delicate and elegant aroma of white truffles seems to call for the softer, more graceful character of Barbaresco. After all, many of today's finest Barolos are known for their powerful and masculine styles.
My thanks go to Leo, Wine Director of Carlyle & Co, for introducing me to a remarkable Barolo crafted under the guidance of winemaker Luca Caramellino.
Luca has a professional background in both viticulture and oenology. Over the years, he has mainly worked as a winemaking consultant, helping numerous wineries produce outstanding wines and earn prestigious awards. One could almost say he has won more trophies than he can hold.
Apart from winemaking, Luca also devotes much of his time to illustrating children's books. He rarely gives interviews. After much persistent questioning, he finally shared his winemaking philosophy with me: to listen carefully to what the grapes have to say.
One winery owner described him as a "poet of wine", and I believe this is no exaggeration. His unique artistic vision and creativity bring a truly moving quality to his wines. On Cellar Tracker, someone even quoted a poem by the English poet William Wordsworth to describe the Ruchè he had crafted.
His Barolo reminds me of Brigitte Lin (Lin Ching-Hsia), the legendary actress who is equally captivating in feminine attire and strikingly handsome in masculine roles. Beneath her beauty lies a proud and noble spirit, giving her an extraordinary presence. That rare balance of strength and grace is simply mesmerising.
There are many winemakers capable of bringing out the classic violet, rose and spice aromas of Piedmont's Barolo. But finding a Barolo with the distinctive elegance and character of Brigitte Lin is truly rare.
Paired with white truffles, this Barolo is nothing short of a match made in heaven.
Montalbera Levoluzione Barolo DOCG 蒙特巴拉 巴羅洛