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二寨爭雄大班樓 Hegemony of Two Crus

二寨爭雄大班樓


荼迷可知中國也有有法律規定古樹茶的標準?

三百年以下的茶樹,只能稱老樹,三百年以上的喬木茶樹,才有資格稱為古樹:

第一次接觸古樹茶是在2007年佛山老城區的老茶店遇上。店主功力深厚,介紹我喝紫芽。當年才$800人仔一餅,真後悔沒有大量採購。然而我也沒有怠慢,他介紹的班樟,當年散茶也三百人民幣一斤,買了一斤回家,越喝越過癮,然後托姑父幫我抬了十斤回港。班樟那濃烈的野棗香,加上霸道的茶氣,喝三泡便有醉意。封在紫砂缸,一直未動。

沒幾年,班樟的價錢已高不可攀了。後來又來了一場〝冰島〞熱。美味冰島五寨都已萬圓計。

何故茶價可以升得如此快?無他,有錢人太多。中國內地也好、香港也好、台灣也好,不乏豪客一擲百萬金,包下茶園,按每株、或每村,購買收益權。有些捉狹友謔稱:比包情婦來得化算,起碼可以朋友分享!真嘔心!好茶落到這些人手上,真的天無眼!

據說冰島最近更有被權貴圈地的厄運。幸好我已嚐過未商業化的冰島茶。

我的神聖任務,就是要幫飲家尋找明日之星,在未被炒貴之前入好貨。下一個我看好的地區,是保山的黃家寨。論樹齡之古,背靠緬甸、柬浦寨,有着延綿萬頃的古茶樹林,興許人跡罕至的原始森林,仍未有經過污染的千年茶樹,通關後誓必探險。

喝過黃家寨區的古樹,初芽的冰糖韻不輸冰島,其底蘊更深不可測。

冰島老寨譽為普洱極品。我看好黃家寨。兩者誰更優勝,恐怕要設個擂台了。

謹訂於二零二二年十月二十二日,假於新大班樓設席品嚐冰島老寨及保山黃家寨,茶迷不容錯失。僅限位。

日期:二零二二年十月二十二日

時間:12:00pm

地點:新大班樓,中環威靈頓街198號The Wellington 3樓

菜單:大班樓即日廚師推介

費用:每位$1888+ 10%


茶單:

冰島老寨最高樹 2018 357g 青餅

冰島老寨中高樹 2018 200g 青餅

保山3200年古樹茶王 2019 357g 青餅

保山3200年古樹茶王 1985 1000g 青餅



Hegemony of Two Crus

Do you know that there are appellation laws in China to define ancient arbor tea tree ? In China, tea from tree under 300 years old can put wordings of old tree on the label. Only tea harvest from 300 years old up can be regarded as ancient arbor.

My first experience with Ancient Arbor tea is in 2007 when I visited Fo Shan. In an old tea house, the owner introduced me “Purple Shoot” Puer tea. It was just RMB 300 per tean cake of 357 grams. The owner is very knowledgeable. I regretted that I did not stock up. Luckily, I bought the Bang Zhang Puer. It is an ancient village where many wild, ancient arbors are found. I was much impressed by the overwhelming aromas of wild berries. The tea “Qi” is overwhelming as well. I was intoxicated after three brews. My first purchase was just one catty. Then I ask my uncle to get me 10 more catties.

In just a few years, price of Bang Zhang has sky-rocketed to an unreachable level. Not long after that, comes an Bing Dao fever. It is now the most expensive Puer tea producing region. For the 5 “Grand Crus “of Bing Dao, the starting point is at lease tens of thousands. No wonder some call it the DRC of Tea.

You may wonder why the price could went up that fast? It is because there are too many riches who is willing to pay hundreds of thousands to charter the arbor, the forest, the village to monopiles the production. Some very bad boys event say it is better off to charter an ancient arbor Puer than to keep a mistress which cannot be shared with friends! How disgusting! Vulgar and nasty people like this do not deserve good tea!

Rumors say that in Bing Dao, they are facing the threat that the “influentials “are circling the forest and occupied. I was fortunate to have tasted these good crus before that were commercialized.

My sacred mission is to discover tomorrow stars of fine wine, fine tea and fine food so my fans can stock up before they are speculated to an untouchable price. The next tea region I have much faith in is the Baoshan Huang Jia Zhai. They are located on the border of Cambodia, Myanmar and Laos with tens of thousands of primitive forest of ancient tea arbors which have not been polluted. I swear that I shall take a tea adventure when we are free to travel.

I have tasted first flush of recent vintages of Huang Jia Zhai. The rock sugar note is comparable with Bing Dao Lao Zhai. In terms of richness, concentration, and complexity, it is even better.

Bing Dao Lao Zhai is regarded as the top quality and most precious Puer tea. However, I think Huang Jia Zhai stands even a little bit taller. Who is the champion? I guess these two need to fight in the boxing ring to let us judge.

I have booked the stage at the Chairman on 22 Oct 2022 at 12:00pm. Those tea fans who do not want to miss this dual please book now. 7 seats only!


Date:22 Oct 2022

Time:12:00pm

Venue:The Chairman,3rd Floor, The Wellington , 198 Wellington Street, Central.

Menu:Chef's Menu of the Date

Price : HKD1888 + 10% per guest


Tea Menu:

Yunnan Bing Dao Lao Zhai Tallest Ancient Arbor Puer 2018 357g Raw Cake

Yunnan Bing Dao Lao Zhai Medium Tall Ancient Arbor Puer 2018 200g Raw Cake

Yunnan Bao Shan 3200 Years Old Ancient Arbor Puer 2019 357g Raw Cake

Yunnan Bao Shan 3200 Years Old Ancient Arbor Puer 2018 1 Kg Raw Cake



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